Impressing the Colleagues

I had folks from work over last Friday night. Why I feel like I have to make that even more spectacular, I'm not sure - but I did. I ended up with a French-ish menu (something that I could do while working most of the day).

Menu
Spinach Salad with Goat Cheese and Roasted Beets
Bouillabaisse
Apricot Tart

I went with an easy salad so I could get it done quickly. I roasted the beets in foil for 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours, pulled them out and left them on the counter. After they cooled, I ran them under water and wiped the skins off - totally easy. If I were really on top of it, I would have done the aoli afterwards and used the lemon to get the beet dye off my skin (it wasn't that bad anyway because I was under the water). I did my usual mustard, balsamic, olive oil and spices dressing.

I was a bit disappointed in the bouillabaisse. I used Anthony Bourdain's recipe - and this is seriously the first non-fantastic experience I've had with his Les Halles cookbook. I think part of the problem with fresh direct (moldy garlic, so I subbed with the jar stuff I keep in the fridge for emergencies, but...) but the second part was the direction that I most hate in all of cooking (cover with water -- do these people not realize that stuff floats in water and what does cover mean, just cover? mostly up to the top? etc.) Anyway, the fish and everything was great, but the broth didn't have the flavor I was hoping for (I think it was too watery (see above), because the complexity was there, but the power wasn't)) - but it was probably my fault and I probably will try the recipe again, just with a little more oomph. I also didn't have the greatest luck with the aoli (hand held 'food processor', huge garlic cloves (ended up with three egg yolks instead of one (basically I tripled the recipe), etc.) So, everyone still raved, but I didn't love it.

The tart was amazing - and potentially the EASIEST thing I have ever made. Basically you mix sugar and butter, add a little vanilla and almond, add a bit of flour, push it out on the pan - throw a couple of things in with the creme fraiche and halve the easiest fruit ever (the practically tear themselves in half). It seriously could not have taken more than 10-15 minutes for a truly amazing tart. I will make this again. Definitely!

Random

Tonight I made dinner for my book club. I've never put together such an incoherent menu before - but it was just all stuff I really wanted to eat, so that's what we had. And luckily, everyhting was good enough that the invitees were happy as well.

Le Menu
Twice Baked Goat Cheese Souffle
Ropa Vieja
Rhubarb Strawberry Pie

Seriously - there is no logic that you can draw to this menu.

I like a first course salad and this sounded good. It was actually pretty easy to do - if I hadn't been running extraordinarily late. But still, not that bad. It was all eaten - even by the folks who don't like goat cheese (2/7). The thing to remember about this one is when they say that the you bring the roux+milk to a 'boil', you have to remember that it's already practically a solid (so interpret 'boil' loosely).

I've been craving Ropa Vieja. And it's pretty easy - just a little time consuming. I braised in the morning while working. The rest of the stuff was just some (very) easy chopping and then throwing stuff together. Seriously, this is a cheap and easy dish (I served 7 (including seconds for most) and have left-overs (plenty of left overs)).

And every weekend, I drive by the farmers' market and say that I should stop and get rhubarb and strawberries. And I finally made the pie (though it was fresh direct (with not exactly the freshest rhubarb (I had to throw half out))) and it was fantastic!! I had to change from Elise's recipe a bit - I forgot tapioca (used 3T of cornstarch instead, someone in comments said 1T cornstarch + 1T flour wasn't enough, my mom suggested 6T (but I don't love cornstarch), so I compromised with about 3 (maybe closer to 4)), I forgot orange (no substitute) and used a Crisco crust instead of butter (I don't have a food processor, so the butter crust, while very appealing - seems impossible).

So, fabulous meal - just not really a Martha-type coherent menu. Everyone enjoyed though, so what else do you want.

Faux Asian Dinner Party

L and I have been throwing dinner parties. We found a beef tenderloin recipe the other day with a wasabi-garlic cream sauce that got our imagination going. From there it was pretty short jump to a quasi-Asian theme.

We started with some summer rolls: carrots, raw beets, cilantro, mint, cellophane noodles all rolled together. They had a sauce recipe that was really close to the one we were planning to use for the salad, so we actually just quadrupled that one and used it for everything.

Our appetizer was Scallops with Asian Lime Chile Sauce. We made it with bay scallops (the recipe calls for sea scallops, which I've done before and which sear better) which was really nice served over greens with the sauce used as a vinaigrette.

We did the Tenderloin with Garlic/Green Curry Cream Sauce, which was fantastic (if I do say so myself - though the guests were also wildly enthusiastic about the meat -- key to note that the epicurious recipe actually seems to be missing a line or two, so I checked another recipe and then accidentally forgot to turn the meat down when I was supposed to, so my cooking direction became: Preheat to 475, cook for 15 min, leave in 15-20 min until meat thermometer is 130, let rest for 10 min, slice and serve (and microwave the piece for your friend who doesn't like it pink)). I really loved the sauce. It was amazing. The mushroom risotto was a little drier than I would have liked (we used the leek risotto recipe from last time, but it just didn't quite work as well).

We had made gougeres last time and it made me want to make profiterols - but the classic flavor didn't seem to work with the faux asian theme, so we mixed it up. We made the cream puffs/pâte à choux from this recipe (it's a little scary when you try to quickly add the flour while heating, but it's actually really easy: Tropical Profiterols), then used mango and raspberry and coconut sorbets (one scoop of each/3 puffs each person) and offered a pineapple sauce (that was okay - I didn't find a great recipe, so I I took a can of crushed pineapple in juice, heated it with 2T of sugar (not sure that was really necessary, but one of the recipes added 3/4c of sugar), 1 tsp of vanilla, and then 2 large limes (we might have needed less if we had no sugar).

We did the first two courses with Reislings - perfect. And then did the meat with the Karl Lawrence 2000 cab that I've had sitting here for ages - it was awesome!

East or West, What is Best: Ouest

Dinner tonight was only amazing in that it happened. I was supposed to have dinner with V. She had to leave work early because she was sick. I emailed C. Before she responsed, S reported that he was in town and going out with L for drinks. Long story short, drinks with S&L then dinner with C, L, O and A. Shouldn't have worked out, but it did.

I didn't really know what to order, nothing really grabbed me. So I was going to get the goat cheese ravioli. Then L asked about the Truffle Omlette "Souffle" (their quotes, not mine). The waiter started salivating - you never really know whether that's for real, but I decided to go for it. I had leftover beef stew for lunch and so didn't want that - but apparently, for me, lamb doesn't count as the other red meat. So I had the "Omlette" and the Rack of Lamb with Creamed Spinach.

I don't want to exaggerate - but the "Truffle" Omlette was amazing. Truly amazing. I would eat another one right now. Except that I'm so full I shouldn't/couldn't. And I'm at home and don't have them here. But seriously, it looks a bit like a pancake, tastes a bit like a quiche (though much, much better - and less beaten) and just makes you happy eating it.

The lamb was great. But I'm stuffed. In retrospect I could have been happy with the "Omlette" and the Creamed Spinach (all pound, or so, of it). The lamb was good (not the best that I've ever had, but eminently eatable), but not earth-shattering. The Omlette and the Spinach just might have been that good. And (brave soul that I am) I would be willing to try.

And they have Vanilla Creme Brulee. Vanilla. Not orange blossom with freeze dried passion fruit flowers. Or lavender scented that can be eaten and slept on later. Or actually made with faux-milk, faux-sugar, faux-everything...

Anyway, the meal was great. The converations was better. All in all a good night. And I'd go back for the "Omlette"

And Sometimes It's Even Better Than You Remember: Spicy Sweet Corn and Poblano Soup

It doesn't usually happen that when you go back and revist something years later that it's quite as good as your memory had it. I've set myself up for that kind of disappointment to many times to walk willingly into it.

I started with the Epicurious recipe for Spicy Sweet Corn and Poblano Soup, but simplified it. One of the things that had kept me from making it was the memory of it being a whole lot of hassle. And I'm just not up for that these days.

So, I made it - and it was pretty quick and very easy. And it is AMAZING. It may be the best soup I've ever eaten. Really. It's that good (even if the picture doesn't quite capture how good it is).

Spicy Sweet Corn and Poblano Soup

Serves 8 (or one person who realizes how good it is and just eats that for 2 days)

3 large garlic cloves, unpeeled
vegetable oil for coating garlic
1/2 teaspoon coriander
1/2 teaspoon cumin
3 medium sweet onions such as Vidalia, Walla Walla, or Maui
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon peanut or vegetable oil
1/2 - 1 fresh jalapeño chili
3 fresh poblano chilies,roasted and peeled (the original recipe called for 2, but I think the better choice is 3 and go on the lighter side on the jalapeño)
3 cups frozen corn (this is one of the simplified things, I'll likely use fresh again in the summer)
8 cups chicken broth
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp heavy cream
2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or to taste

1. Cut the top off the garlic clove, place on aluminum foil, swab with oil, wrap, put in 350 oven and bake (Epicurious says 30 minutes, it usually takes my oven more like 45 minutes - needs to be squeezably soft)
2. Roast and peel poblanos. I use my stove burner and then put in a bag (paper or plastic) and let cool.
3. Chop onions. Cook 2/3 of onions over low heat in oil until soft. Add jalepeño and 2 cups corn. Cook for two minutes. Add coriander, cumin, salt, pepper and 1/2 of the roasted poblanos. Cook for two minutes. Add broth. Simmer for 30 minutes.
4. Squeeze in garlic. Add cream. Puree with an immersion blender.
5. Sautee remaining corn in a little oil until they have a little brown on them.
6. Add lime juice, reserved onions, reserved poblanos and sauteed corn to the soup and cook til heated.
7. Serve (or wait a couple of hours and reheat and serve - and it's even better!)

Typical Japanese Lunch - The Ultimate Overview

I have noticed that there is rampant curiosity out on the web as to what is a 'Typical Japanese Lunch' or at least there are a phenomenal number of people googling that topic. I may have mentioned, I lived in Tokyo for a number of years (4+). During that time I had lunch (almost) every day.

I've posted a few reviews of specific restaurants/foods here, but I thought it might be helpful to give an overview (and then as I go to specific restaurants, I can refer back to this). First of all, lunch in Japan is pretty much like lunch in the US - you try to keep it under $10, it's nice to have some variety, but worst case - at least it's fast. One thing to keep in mind is that most Japanese restaurants serve only one thing (Sushi restaurants serve sushi, tempura restaurants serve tempura, you get the picture - though Noodle restaurants often serve Donburis, it's still a pretty narrow menu you'll be ordering from once you choose your restaurant.)

I worked at two different jobs in three different locations in Tokyo, so during that time, I got to try the restaurants surrounding both. At the end of the day, I think the representation was pretty good, so here goes:

Sushi

I think most people start here, thinking that this is the typical Japanese lunch. To be honest, I probably ate it more often than my Japanese colleagues, and I don't think that I had it even once a week. Sushi is still a delicacy in Tokyo (it's not that it's not easy to find, it's just that it's too expensive for an 'everyday' lunch). When I did have sushi, it generally took one of two forms:

• 'Pine' Sushi - Japan is very big on offering 'lunch sets'. It's a bargain price for something that would cost (at least!) double at dinner time. The sushi places though do it with a certain consistency and offer three different set menus at lunch - and while there is variety, in fact just knowing that there's a low, medium and high offering, you can pretty much zen navigate your meal in a new restaurant.


• Take-out Sushi - This is pretty much as mediocre as the take-out sushi that one sees in the States. That said, there's one exception, I used to find this great Negi-Toro-Don near my office (Negi=Onion, Toro=Fatty Tuna, Don='On a bowl of rice' (it's short for Don-buri). This basically looks like a bowl with rice in it with a mound of raw tuna and some chopped up green onions. And yes, it's fantastic. Occasionally you can find this in the states as a roll, but I've never seen it as a lunch choice. Unfortunate, because we're missing out.

Korean

Japan is not known for being the strongest integrator of other cultures, but both Korean and Chinese food (next item) are pretty popular in Japan. Korean lunch places often have the little barbeque grills built right into the tables. They're pretty common - you generally don't have to walk very far to get lunch. The menu is pretty varied, but I usually stuck to one of two things:

• Yaki-niku (Translated it means Barbequed-beef) - This is the Japanese version of Korean barbeque. It's available both cooked by the kitchen and cooked at the table (almost always better). I like both Bulgogi and Kalbi (please note that these are the Japanized versions of the names), but I like one better - this would be a great time for me to remember which one I like better, but I never do. I usually have to order both and then I remember. I think it's Kalbi, but I wouldn't swear to it. I have to say that as much as I like Korean Korean BBQ, I really like Japanese Korean BBQ just the tiniest bit better. (I think it's one of those 'which did you grow up with kinds of things') The Japanese version is a bit more orderly (weird word, but try them both and you'll know what I mean) and I really like the dipping sauce.


• Bi-bim-ba (This is the Japanese spelling, the Korean version is Bi-bim-bop (I made the mistake of thinking that I knew all about Korean food based on what I had learned in Japan - it's a little like going to China and looking for chop suey)) - This is a bowl with a scoop of rice covered with a variety of different vegetables, meat, egg and hot sauce. The bowl is hot. When it shows up, you have to mix it all up and it finishes cooking right there in front of your eyes. And it tastes fabulous! So, with the drama and the taste, it clearly scores high on the lunch food survey.


• Kimchi Stew - I never remember the name of this, but it's really good. It's a hearty, rich winter-type stew. Plenty of kimchi for flavor, plenty of pork for substance, and plenty of heat for the winter (insulation is definitely not a native Japanese word).

Chinese

To be honest, I didn't eat a ton of Chinese food while I was in Japan. But it's very popular as a cheap lunch option. I distinctly remember sweet&sour pork as an option and I feel like everything else felt reasonably American-Chinese standard too (so, not exactly the same, but not out of left-field either). The bottom line is that it's good, cheap food.

Noodles

This may be the single most common lunch in all of Japan.

• Soba - The king of Japanese noodles. The simple buckwheat noodle. If it is at all possible, eat it fresh. It's hard to find, but oh, so worth it. You can get tens or hundreds (maybe thousands) of different soba dishes (it really is like pasta - you can put any sauce you can imagine with the noodles). My favorite is Zaru Soba (cold soba with a dipping sauce - especially important to find good (preferably fresh) noodles)
• Udon - These are the white flour noodles. They're more filling and I'm not such a huge fan. EXCEPT with Curry Udon. This is a magic winter dish. On those days that it's miserable and cold and you feel like you'll never be warm again - try the Curry Udon, instantly you're better (and full). It's a heavy lunch (maybe even better for dinner, but I digress)
• Ramen - This is my least favorite, though the most globally popular of the three noodle types available in Japan. If friends insisted on going, I just ordered Miso Ramen. It's actually pretty good - but I wouldn't ever choose it as a destination.

Don-buris

This is pretty much anything over rice. You get a decent sized bowl of rice topped with some form of protein. My favorites are:

• Oyako-don: Chicken & egg
• Unagi-don: Eel

Pizza

You'd think that corn pizza was just one line that you couldn't cross. But you'd be wrong. You stay in Japan long enough (and for me, I really think it was only a few weeks before I bit the bullet) and you'll have tried it. They have pizza chains (Shakey's was always my favorite) and ours had a little lunch buffet deal (all you can eat). And so one day you realize that pizza with corn on it isn't bad. And then one day you realize you always get corn pizza because it tastes good.

Tonkatsu

The Japanese are justifiably famous for their deep-fried pork cutlet lunch. In the good places (and why wouldn't you go to a good place), the breaded-fried outside isn't greasy, the inside is moist and tender and there's plenty of sauce. I don't know what the sauce is - it's tonkatsu sauce. It's delicious. I think that I started eating Tonkatsu for the sauce (growing up I was not a huge pork person), but gradually realized that the whole meal was fabulous (though the sauce really is really fabulous - think of it like Japanese ketchup, but better - and more brown).

Curry Rice

On a cold winter day, nothing is better than curry rice (or maybe curry udon, but I digress). It's warm, it's rich and it fills you right up. It's not an Indian curry taste, it's got some heat, but it's more about depth - it's more just meat-ness. It's delicious, but seriously, only eat it on days you're hungry.

When I lived in Japan, the most popular 'instant' curry brand was Vermont Curry - I can't even count the number of people who asked me if it really tasted like real Vermont Curry. Wow.

Tempura

Tempura is one of the more widely-known Japanese foods (maybe second after sushi?). What's not so widely known is that in Japan there are really Tempura restaurants. You go in and you decide what kind of tempura you want - everyone's having deep fry on that day. But really, it's a good kind of deep fry - it's light, there are a lot of vegetables - really, it's fine. It's delicious. It is best to go to a Tempura-only place if at all possible because you do tend to get better dipping sauce (plus they have the grated daikon, etc. that make the sauce so much better). Usually in the tempura-only restaurants you're deciding noodle or rice, shrimp or vegetable only.

Japanese Lunch

This is sort of the 'Other' category

• Shou-ga-yaki (Stir-fried ginger) - Stir-fries are good. This one has a nice ginger flavor and the pork is in strips like really fine bacon (when I've had it in the US, it's tended to be more chunks of pork, which just isn't as good).

Not Really a Dilemma

So I finally did it. I sat down and did it. With all the stress around it, you'd think it would have been a big deal. But it turns out to be only slightly more than 400 pages - and a pretty easy read. And so now, when people ask, I can tell them that I actually have read the Omnivore's Dilemma. And I liked it.

And I can also talk about how I felt morally impelled to go to the greenmarket to buy my food for the week. I think it was the corn chapter that got to me. I can deal with the cycle of life - I totally got his whole hunting and chicken things. I just can't deal with us screwing with the economics of corn so that we end up with corn in everything from cows to Coke. I won't say I was determined to never eat another corn fed cow, but I was definitely determined to avoid it wherever I could (I'm a realist... really!).

And so, on a cold (did I mention that winter is not my favorite holiday) Saturday morning, with not quite enough sleep (not killer early, but still, don't love mornings) - I dragged myself out of a very nice, warm, cozy bed and went to yoga. This is not a digression as after the class, I hiked 10 blocks south (and a few blocks east, but I was on Broadway, so I didn't even feel the east part) and started shopping. I wasn't exactly sure what would be available (the website shows January pretty much as a - we sell you the things we have in our cellars - month). But, they actually had some good choices of meats, cheeses, some of the vegs (but yes, especially the root ones) and apples. I did one run through and then went back. I ended up with a bunch of carrots, some parsnips, a few onions, one bunch of leeks, a butternut squash (of course), some ground lamb, some beef for stew, a dozen eggs, some Italian sausage (pork) and two apples. Heavy stuff, but I felt like I had, if not solved my dilemma, at least addressed it. And so I went home (stopping for a very nice brunch first at Ocean - highly (HIGHLY) recommend the chestnut gnocci with pork (probably not freshly killed, but still pretty killer) ragout (though you should like salt, which I do, if you're going to order).

Once home, I realized that the beef needed to be made into a stew (stew cubes aren't good for a whole lot else). I checked epicurious and found a recipe which I used more for guidance than anything else. Really, it was the comment that said something to the effect of: they should have said active time of something more like 3 hours, but it was totally worth it. I wasn't going to do 3 hours active time for stew(!). I read the recipe. It also sounded like my beautiful root vegetables were going to be used more for flavor than substance (it would have been fine if I had had more, but all of a sudden, what had been a very heavy bag, looked pretty skimpy).

And so I improvised.

My recipe:

1 package demi-glace (~ 1Tbsp) plus 5 cups water (or 48 ounces beef stock)

2 Tbsp tomato paste

1/2 cup ruby port (that was the wine option that I had open)

2 parsnips (vegetable numbers are approximate, but parsnips are strong, so don't over-do)

2 lbs carrots

1/2 cup pearl onions

2 lb beef (cubed)

It's pretty easy from there:

1. Preheat oven to 350
2. Add olive oil, salt and pepper to top and bottom of beef cubes, then saute (in dutch oven, ideally) in a little oil, remove (do it in multiple batches so you don't kill the heat in the pan)
3. Deglaze dutch oven with port
4. Add demi-glace and water, stir and let come to a boil
5. Put beef back in stock
6. Put in oven for 3 hours, removing lid for second half (judge based on liquid)
7. Add vegetables, put lid on, and cook for additional 45 minutes
8. Ideally, let sit overnight, reheat in same pan

I served this with quinoa. I felt super-healthy: quinoa, grass-fed beef, organic&local vegetables - only the demi-glace, the port and the water (NY tap) were not officially sanctioned, but the result was fabulous. I will make again - two thumbs up for my only critic that matters -me.

And way too soon to tell if my new-found Saturday 'habit' will have an impact on my overall health (or that of the planet), but I'll keep trying - for at least a little while.

7 Days of Turkey Makes One Week

So, last Thursday (Thanksgiving) I ate my normal pumpkin-pie-only before dinner and then enjoyed my full Thanksgiving dinner. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday, I took full advantage of the leftovers (and there were lots of them) in my fridge. On Monday, I took turkey, potatoes, peas and gravy to work (our cafeteria is awful), but had something different (L's fabulous dinner) for dinner. On Tuesday, I again had leftovers (just turkey, peas and gravy this time - I figured that the carbs were being a bit overloaded) for lunch, but went to Bar Boulud (the closest to a regular place that I have) for dinner.

Today was one week (Thursday to Wednesday) and I didn't disappoint, I had my turkey lunch (like yesterday - just gravy and peas again). But then dinner tonight will be fabulous (details later). But really, that's seven full days of turkey (and I'm not even running low on it at this point) - I feel like I've passed a test, or perhaps just had a lot of good food.

Very Full: Dinner and a Ko Treat

Today as an early birthday treat, my friend L made dinner and J brought along dessert. L was on a mission to combine all of the things I most liked (without getting weird like blueberries mixed with green curry).

She started with 2 kinds of cheese (mmmm, cheese) as our appetizer (I especially enjoyed the blue/brie - forget what it's called, but it's all creamy goodness). And then proceeded to dazzle with Thai food (green curry chicken, pad thai, etc.) as well as more of a pan-Asian broccoli that I totally adored (I'm getting the recipe).

J stopped at Momofuku Milk Bar (it's very hard to keep up with all of the Momofuku's, but this one is the bakery - to be perfectly honest I had missed it, but I sometimes miss things - J usually doesn't miss things) and grabbed not one, not two, not even three, but all four kinds of pie (I'm not a cake fan, so birthday pie is a much better idea for me!!)

Reviews of the pies - they were all sweet, very sweet even - which I liked, but a couple of folks found a bit overpowering. For me, if I absolutely had to choose, I would order them as follows:

• Crack pie - this was kind of like a blondie cookie, but more firm (a little solid, almost cookie-like in texture) with more butterscotch - I can't even describe it except that it was so very good
• Candy bar pie - this was kind of like a snickers bar with pretzels on top - it looked disgusting, just a big thing of chocolate with pretzels and the inside of a 3 muskateers seeping out the edge - it was fantastic, the right blend of salty and sweet - plus the little bits of carmel just when you thought it couldn't get any better
• Blondie pumpkin pie - this sounded the most disgusting, but was actually really good - some of that same butterscotch as in the crack pie, but a little more mellow and a softer texture, and no overwhelming pumpkin (not that I don't love pumpkin pie, I just generally don't like pumpkin pie mixed with other things)
• Brownie - a fantastic brownie in a pie shape, but perhaps it's a sign of age, but the pure chocolate baked goods aren't quite doing it for me anymore - don't get me wrong, it was great, it just didn't beat out the other three

But tonight I didn't have to choose - I had all four. And now I am full. Very full. It's good. But probably not repeatable (at least in the near future) and so I'm glad to know the order to choose them in - because some day I really might need to choose. And that would be hard, but it would still be good.